Gianfranco Fino, "Es Red" Primitivo 2018

Gianfranco Fino transformed the reputation of Primitivo from the sun-scorched Manduria flatlands of Puglia, coaxing ancient bush vines into wines of startling concentration. Es is his calling card, a Primitivo of southern power kept honest by old-vine pedigree, from the warm and generous 2018 vintage in Italy's deep south.

Near-opaque purple-black. The nose is opulent and warm: macerated blackberry, fig, dark chocolate, dried thyme and a lick of espresso. The palate is full-bodied and velvety, plush black fruit and liquorice cushioned by ripe, rounded tannins and surprising freshness for the heat. There is sweet spice and carob on the mid-palate. The finish is long, warming and balsamic.