Helene, Champagne "Vieilles Vignes" Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut

From old vines on grand cru chalk, this is grower-style Champagne in its most exacting form: Blanc de Blancs, all Chardonnay, dosed extra brut so nothing hides the fruit or the terroir. Helene's Vieilles Vignes cuvée trades flash for tension and depth, a sparkling wine of poise and serious intent.

Pale gold threaded with a fine, persistent bead, it opens on lemon, white peach, brioche and a chalky whiff of almond. The palate is taut and creamy at once, citrus and orchard fruit framed by a saline, mineral spine and a fine autolytic toastiness. The bone-dry dosage leaves it precise and bracing. The finish is long, flinty and saline.