Monte dei Ragni, Ripasso della Valpolicella 2015

Zeno Zignoli farms Monte dei Ragni by hand on the steep Valpolicella terraces, working without compromise and without modern shortcuts. His Ripasso, from the warm 2015 vintage, is anything but an afterthought to Amarone: a wine refermented on Amarone skins that gains depth while keeping a wild, artisanal soul.

Deep ruby-garnet. The bouquet is rich and rustic in the best sense: dried cherry, plum, sweet spice, leather and a balsamic, herbal undertow. The palate is full and warming, ripe dark fruit and raisined depth carried by dusty tannins and bright acidity. There is a savoury, almost gamey complexity here. The finish is long, spiced and soulful, never heavy.