Clandestin, Champagne "Les Revers" Blanc de Blanc

Clandestin is the grower project of Benoît Doussot and Bénédicte Cossey in the Côte des Bar, working chalk and Kimmeridgian marl with a natural, minimal hand. Les Revers is their Blanc de Blancs, pure Chardonnay from the southern reaches of Champagne, vinous and transparent. This is fizz made like wine, by people with nothing to hide.

Pale straw-gold with a delicate, persistent mousse. The nose opens on green apple, white flowers, lemon pith and a chalky struck-match note. The palate is taut and saline, citrus and orchard fruit stretched over a fine mineral spine, with a whisper of brioche from time on lees. Dry, precise and energetic, the finish leaves a clean, stony echo.